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Posted by Sunset, August 30, 2008 in Ornamentals

By Jim McCausland, Sunset senior garden writer

I've got a great fall project for you—one I tried and loved. It all started last year when I got a beguiling press release from Sally Ferguson at the Netherlands Flowerbulb Information Center showing how to layer bulbs in big pots for spectacular spring effect. The idea is to plant a layer of daffodils on the bottom, a layer of tulips above those, perhaps a layer of hyacinths next, and a layer of crocus or muscari on top. Sally’s before-and-after photos show it better than I can tell it:

Bulblayering Bulblayerpayoff

I tried it in three 16-inch-wide, 15-inch-tall pots on my deck. The trick is in the timing. You can choose bulbs that flower in sequence, so you have a really long season of bloom; go for the single blowout display, like the grand finale at a fireworks show; or have early blooms leading up to a fairly impressive display at the end. This last plan is the one I followed. See the following shots, taken on my deck in early May.

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It really worked, and I recommend it to anybody. I bought my bulbs from Brent and Becky’s Bulbs, with some free advice from Brent to make sure I got the timing right.

You can order bulbs by mail as I did, or just go to a nursery and buy from the new shipment of spring bulbs that usually arrives before Labor Day weekend.

For the record, here’s what I planted in the two containers pictured here. The parenthetical numbers show how many of each went in. Bulbs on the bottom of the list were planted on the bottom of the pot; those above were planted above it in the bottom-to-top order listed.

Cobalt blue pot (foreground in shot on left)
Crocus ‘Jeanne d’Arc’ (20)—white
Muscari armeniacum(20)—blue
Hyacinthus ‘Delft Blue’ (10)—blue
Narcissus ‘Thalia’ (10)—white
Tulipa ‘Apeldoorn’ (10)—red

Gray pot
Muscari armeniacum(10)— blue
Hyacinthus ‘City of Haarlem’ (10)—yellow aging to cream
Narcissus ‘Ice Follies’ (10)—white with yellow cup
Tulipa ‘Apeldoorn’ (10)—red

More: The best bulbs to plant this fall | Planting bulbs in beds

Comments

What a great idea. My question is about watering? I live in Phoenix where we will have 80's & 90's well in to the fall. My ornamental beds are all on drip emitters. Should I use drip emitters on all planted bulbs? And when should I start watering?
Thanks,
Marilynne

Posted by:Marilynne | September 14, 2008 at 10:03 AM

Because you're in Phoenix, wait a month or two to plant. And because these are in containers and are planted layers deep, I'd hand water each pot just enough to that it starts coming out the drain hole. First watering is done right after planting.

--Jim

Posted by:Jim McCausland | September 14, 2008 at 11:49 PM

Thanks, Jim-
Do bulbs benefit from a period of refrigeration in climates like Phoenix? And do you think I should use the drip emitters on bulbs as soon as they are planted in the ground or will that cause rot?
Thanks again-
Marilynne

Posted by:Marilynne | September 22, 2008 at 12:51 PM

Yes. Refrigerate bulbs for at least 6 weeks before planting, and put the container when it gets only morning sun (not hot afternoon sun). Drip is fine from the beginning, but I'd drench the containers once after planting.
--Jim

Posted by:Jim McCausland | September 22, 2008 at 04:04 PM

The bulbs are in the "beer" fridge in the garage and thank you for your help!!
Marilynne

Posted by:Marilynne | October 22, 2008 at 08:59 AM

I would like to know if you planted annuals or something else in the top, or did you leave it as just dirt all fall and winter till the bulbs came up?

Thanks!

Posted by:Vicky | October 27, 2008 at 03:34 PM

There's nothing but bulbs in these containers, but it wasn't just the featureless dirt that you might imagine. The first bulb shoots were up around new years, and from then it was just fun watching them grow.

Posted by:Jim McCausland | October 28, 2008 at 08:24 AM

Your containers are gorgeous! My dilemma: The Sunset Western Garden Book gives a different method, very briefly outlined:
1.larger bulbs with bulb nose at soil level
2.Layer smaller bulbs slightly deeper.
3.Lack of planting depth is addressed (Sunset zones 1-7, I'm 4 or 5) by submerging pots to rim in dirt, mulching, then moving out after growth begins in 8-10 weeks or so. I've planted three containers using that method this year. Have you ever tried it? I suspect they could be leggy or floppy. I plan a couple more containers--these I'll plant according to your method and compare next Spring.
Many thanks!


Posted by:Christine | November 07, 2008 at 10:17 PM

Hi Christine,
In Sunset zones 4 or 5, you don't need to submerge the pot. I've done the method pictured on page 684 of the Western Garden Book, but that's for single varieties, not layers of bulbs (maybe you're looking at something different?). It works perfectly, as does the layering technique that I did last fall for spring flowers. In the Western Garden Book, we show planting tulip bulbs 5 inches deep. There's no floppiness at all at that depth. Everything we do and recommend is tested, usually by the author (but sometimes by our test gardeners), so press on: you'll succeed!
--Jim

Posted by:Jim McCausland | November 10, 2008 at 09:43 AM

Thanks Jim, for your response. Rereading the section on container culture for bulbs, they were talking about single varieties, as you say. I rely on the Sunset Western Garden Book for most of my gardening information and inspiration-- I anticipate success! Thanks again.
Christine

Posted by:Christine | November 10, 2008 at 08:37 PM
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