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Posted by Sunset, November 7, 2008 in Sustainable gardening

By Sharon Cohoon, Sunset senior garden writer

Lawn fertilizers that also contain a systemic pesticide that kills lawn grubs, such as Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control, are certainly convenient.   But we probably shouldn't be using them.

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The active ingredient in these grub controls is imidacloprid, a synthetic nicotine.  (In the US it is most commonly marketed as Merit).  Imidacloprid is a nerve toxin. It is highly toxic to insects, including beneficial ones such as bees.  It persists in the soil and is taken up by plant roots and spreads to all parts of the plant, including the pollen. 

Beekeepers in France, the UK, Canada, and the US believe imidacloprid and similar neonicotinoids are responsible for Colony Collapse Disorder in bees.  (Imidacloprid is used extensively as a seed coating for maize, sunflower, rapeseed, and other agricultural crops and beekeepers believe it pollutes these crops' pollen.)

Scientists say this claim hasn't been proven, but read some of the links listed below and see if you want to continue using imidacloprid and taking the chance of contributing to the Colony Collapse Disorder problem.

Requiem for the Honeybee, Organic Consumers Association

What's Killing the Bees?,Environmental News Network

Imidacloprid, Pesticide Fact Sheet, Sierra Club Canada

Imidacloprid Contamination in Sugar, Leeds Beekeepers' Association

 

For some organic alternatives to treating grubs and other lawn pests, see SafeLawns.org.

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Comments

Dear Sunset,
I hope you can answer my question about cordyline australis. I bought and planted three of these wonderful reddish plants though local nurseries told me there was nothing I could do to stop them growing into tall palms. This would not be a disaster in the location where I have them, but I would love them to be somewhat lower and bushier. My 2007 Sunset Garden Book says "For a more graceful plant, cut back when young to force multiple trunks." I didn't do anything drastic, but cut out the middle half dozen leaves hoping to force side growth. Checking back a few days later, I find those cut leaves have grown back about 2 to 3 inches. Was I supposed to hack all the leaves off? Where do I go from here? Any help would be appreciated from our source for all garden knowledge.
Thank you, Avril Merrick
e-mail :avril@gomailgo.net
Phone: 858 755 1930

Posted by:Avril Merrick | November 07, 2008 at 04:42 PM

Avril, I can't answer this from personal experience, so let me check with a few experts. I'll get back to you.

Posted by:sharon | November 09, 2008 at 02:51 PM

Avril, I asked Randy Baldwin, the manager of the wholesale nursery San Marcos Growers your question. (San Marcos grows a lot of cordylines.) Here's his answer.


She will need to cut the stem and not just the leaves to force new shoots. This process sometimes takes quite a while so she will also need some patience, which is hard when you are looking at a severely mutilated plant. If possible I would cut the stem at the tip and leave any lower leaves below on the stem to hide this cut.

Some of the newer Cordyline cultivars such as Festival Grass (‘Jurred’), 'Cardinal’, ‘Crimson Star’ (may be the same as Cardinal), 'Electric Pink' and Renegade (‘Tana') are hybrids between Cordyline australis and Cordyline banksii that naturally branch from the base and are smaller plants.

Posted by:sharon | November 13, 2008 at 07:50 AM

Im scared of bee you they can be very dangerous.

Posted by:laptops | July 20, 2011 at 01:21 PM
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